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Presto 1-D Cutting Head

 
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ahyde



Joined: 08 Feb 2008
Posts: 5

PostPosted: Fri Feb 08, 2008 5:44 pm    Post subject: Presto 1-D Cutting Head Reply with quote

Hi all, I'm Aaron..new to cutting, new to the forum. Hoping to get what i can figured out before I ask too many stupid questions:)

Anyone have an old manual or any information about the Presto 1D head? Couldn't find much..

Hoping to cut in to some harder, longer lasting material (PVC?) at some point.

Thanks!
Aaron
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ahyde



Joined: 08 Feb 2008
Posts: 5

PostPosted: Fri Feb 08, 2008 6:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

PS- I'll take any info: Amp choice, best stylus, any specs, ohm, frequency range, etc..

It's on a Rek-o-Kut TR-43H, which I see a couple people use on here.

-Aaron
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grooveguy



Joined: 22 Jun 2006
Posts: 40

PostPosted: Fri Feb 08, 2008 11:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aaron: I have exactly what you need. The original 'manual', such as it is, for the Presto 1D head, PLUS, at no additional cost: "An Instantaneous Recording Head", an article from Communication and Broadcast Engineering magazine for March, 1937. This is Presto's Chief Engineer's article on the basis for the 1-series heads and has a lot of the original design criteria.

I'm off on a cruise in the morning (Feb 9) but will be back in a week and I'd be happy to scan and e-mail these to you. I will need to get your direct e-mail address; not sure how to do that. YOU figure it out and post back a reply during the coming week.

I've rebuilt a lot of the 1C and 1D heads, and if they are driven from a good amp they are capable of very good results. I found that by using a short-shank stylus, instead of the long-shank recommended, I could get pancake-flat response to just under 15kHz. The long-shank was required to modulate coarse grooves at 78 r.p.m., but for microgroove work the short-shank is fine.

Cheers,

Jim
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JayDC



Joined: 13 Jan 2007
Posts: 257
Location: District of Columbia

PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 3:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jim,
Whats the transco part # for the short shank w/ heat?
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ahyde



Joined: 08 Feb 2008
Posts: 5

PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 5:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow, thanks for the info Jim..

Interesting to hear you used the short shank, as I was looking at the single ruby long shank Apollo offered. What short shank do you recommend, if any? What amp have you used for a 1c/1d? I was eyeing an old tube 60w (and a 20w) amplifier that provides 500ohms, which I think is the correct impedence for the 1D? Seems like I may have come across something about not going solid state on these things with the higher impedence...

Hoping to get a good sound off this thing, doesn't have to be great, but I'd like to enjoy listening back to what I record. Any chance I can cut pvc, or something sturdy for a one off project?

Regards,
Aaron
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grooveguy



Joined: 22 Jun 2006
Posts: 40

PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 12:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, Aaron,

All my styli date to the 1970s when one could order directly from Capps or Micropoint. Fortunately I laid in a good stock and haven't even begun to wonder what I'll do when these are gone. Got lots but refuse to share; sorry.

The stylus I use is what was simply called "short shank." It's the same length used for the Grampian cutter, and also for Webster, Audax and all the 'home recorder' cutterheads. 5/8 of an inch, if memory serves, but don't quote me there. Just specify "Grampian."

When I purchased from Capps, I called out a "microgroove BB", which meant Barely Burnised. The burnishing facets were very small, which is great for good HF response at inner diameters, but requires a heating coil. You could order the styli "wired," with the heating coil, but I preferred to do it myself. I had an old power resistor wound with very fine nichrome wire, which I unraveled and wound around the stylus tip... about 3 turns. When the unsupported wire (going back to the screw terminals) got cherry-red, it cut like the proverbial knife through butter. By the way, the 1D head is good for hot-stylus work; some others change response when they get warm.

Gotta go now, I hear the cruise ship horn blowing. Will scan and PDF the Presto material when I get back. I see that there's a private message, so your e-mail address must be there.

Cheers,

Jim
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Doug 6N



Joined: 21 May 2007
Posts: 64
Location: Washington

PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 3:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Aaron:

Get the Transco Grampian Stylus from Apollomasters.com This is a short shank. Presto Fairchild is the long shank. Sorry for not remembering numbers off top of my head. Smile

Your head could be 8 15 500 ohm. Check by a resistance measurement.

I'm using a 1-C head on my Presto and a 90B amp. Ok for what I want to do.

I like tubes myself. Smile But then I'm older too. Very Happy

Doug
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JayDC



Joined: 13 Jan 2007
Posts: 257
Location: District of Columbia

PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 4:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

long shank 462
short shank 362
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ahyde



Joined: 08 Feb 2008
Posts: 5

PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2008 5:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is there a thread on here about DIY heating up of stylus? Sounds like something I may want to do.
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JayDC



Joined: 13 Jan 2007
Posts: 257
Location: District of Columbia

PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2008 12:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

my presto puts out 6vac to heat the wire for acetate. You may need up to 12vac for plastics.
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